Wavy, Curly & Afro Hair

Ashley M Taylor-Jackson, PhD - Scientific Communications Lead-Mielle

Crunchy hair is typically caused by the use of heavy styling products that contain high levels of hold and lack sufficient moisture. Defining your curls without that dreaded crunch is all about choosing the right products and techniques.

Moisture is key : Before styling your hair, use a Leave In Conditioner for extra moisture and curl definition

Look for products specifically designed for Curl Definition: Curl creams offers moisture and hold without the stiffness while gels offer definition and frizz control

Use styling techniques to get the desired curl definition

1. The Rake and Shake Method: Apply product to wet hair, rake it through with fingers, and then shake the curls to encourage their natural pattern.

2. Scrunching: Gently scrunch hair upwards to enhance curl formation after applying products

3. Twist-outs and Braid-outs: These techniques involve twisting or braiding damp hair and letting it dry to create defined curls.

4. Finger Coiling: For more defined curls, individual sections of hair can be coiled around your finger.

Everyone's hair is different so take time to find what works best for your unique curls

Ashley M Taylor-Jackson, PhD - Scientific Communications Lead-Mielle

When you pick up a bottle of shampoo, you’re looking at a blend of ingredients that work together to clean and nourish your hair. Here are some key components:

Surfactants: These are the superheroes of your shampoo that drive cleansing! Surfactants help to break down oils and dirt, allowing them to be washed away. Common surfactants include sodium lauryl sulfate and cocamidopropyl betaine. If you have sensitive skin or color-treated hair, you might want to look for milder surfactants.

Conditioning Agents: After cleansing but to ensure our shampoos also provide moisturization, conditioning agents are usually added to formulation. This helps in keeping our hair soft and manageable during the shampoo phase, especially for those who detangle during this step. Conditioning agents like polyquaterniums, cetrimonium chloride, glycerin, behentrimonium methosulfate (THIS IS NOT A SULFATE!), hydrolyzed protein, lipids (fatty acids, oils, butters) help to smooth the hair cuticle and reduce frizz.

Preservatives: To keep your shampoo stable, fresh, and safe to use, preservatives like phenoxyethanol or ethylhexylglycerin are added. They prevent the growth of bacteria and mold!

Fragrance and Colour: While these don’t affect the cleaning power, they do make your shampoo smell delightful and bring the artsy/creative side to formulation. Just be mindful if you have skin sensitivities

Here are ingredients to avoid to keep the moisture of your curls:

• Parabens which are preservatives that can cause irritation and allergic reactions.

• Strong Sulfates which can strip moisture from curly hair, leading to dryness.

• Short-chain alcohols which can dehydrate curly hair, whereas fatty alcohols are typically used to help to provide hydration while providing a smooth/soft feel

Here are 4 key steps to refresh your curls:

Let your hair settle – Remove ties, clips, or sleep protection and wait ~10 minutes for your waves/curls to return to their natural shape.

• Lightly mist – Rehydrate your waves/curls or coils with a light spritz of water, just enough to reactivate wash-day products. (Skip if using a refreshing mist.)

• Add product – Target frizzy or stubborn areas with a lightweight product like Shake + Shine Refreshing Mist to bring waves and clumps back together. Remember sometimes less is more when applying product.

• Dry – Diffuse on low/medium heat for bounce, or air dry. Avoid touching to prevent frizz. If using Shake + Shine, air drying is enough.

Ashley M Taylor-Jackson, PhD - Scientific Communications Lead-Mielle

Here are some hair maintenance tips to keep your curls defined and healthy

1. Curl Refresh: On  non-wash days, use a light mist of water or a curl refresher spray to revive curls

2. Night Care: Use a satin or silk pillowcase or a hair wrap to reduce friction while sleeping, which helps maintain curl definition.

3. Trims: Regular trims help remove split ends and keep curls looking healthy

4. Deep Conditioning: Incorporate deep conditioning treatments (once a week or once every two weeks) to keep curls hydrated and manageable

To prevent frizz in humid weather, especially for curly hair, keep your strands hydrated and moisturized, as excess moisture in the air can disrupt hair and cause frizz. Use frizz-fighting products like strong-hold gels with anti-humidity ingredients for extra control.

Frizz in natural curly hair can be caused by a variety of factors, including:

1. Humidity: High humidity levels can cause hair to absorb moisture from the air, leading to swelling and frizz as the hair cuticles lift.

2. Dryness: Curly hair tends to be drier because sebum has a harder time traveling down the twists and turns of the hair strands. Dry hair is more prone to frizz.

3. Damage: Chemical treatments, heat styling, and rough handling can damage the hair cuticle, making it more porous and susceptible to frizz.

4. Lack of Moisture: Insufficient hydration from the inside (not drinking enough water) or outside (not using moisturizing products) can result in frizz.

5. Product Build-up: Using layering products on a daily basis without proper cleansing can lead to build-up, which can make hair look dull and frizzy.

6. Improper Hair Care: Using the wrong type of shampoo or conditioner, or not following a proper hair care routine, can contribute to frizz. For instance, washing hair too                frequently can strip natural oils.

7. Mechanical Damage: Rough towel drying, excessive brushing, or using the wrong tools can lead to frizz by causing friction and breakage.

8. Genetics: Some individuals are genetically predisposed to having frizzier hair due to the structure of their hair strands.

To manage frizz,  use moisturizing products, limit heat styling, avoid over-washing, and adopt a gentle hair care routine.